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【寻味中华】武汉五芳斋汤圆：白如羊脂 甜蜜馥郁******
中新社武汉2月4日电 题：武汉五芳斋汤圆：白如羊脂 甜蜜馥郁
作者 武一力
中国人的“年味”，体现在活色生香的食俗里。享尽天南海北的“硬菜”后，汤圆开始登上餐桌“C位”。
临近元宵节，每天凌晨四五点钟，“中华老字号”武汉五芳斋门口就排起长队。食客翘首以盼，等候汤圆出锅。
资料图：“叠式汤圆”也称“滚汤圆” 张畅 摄1946年，以跑船为生的江苏人倪锦财落脚汉口，成立武汉五芳斋，经营江浙风味的汤圆。发展至今，五芳斋在武汉已是三镇皆知、远近闻名；武汉“五芳斋汤圆”也被认定为中国名点、中华名小吃。
正如豆腐脑有“咸甜之争”，汤圆的吃法也有地域之分。
“按叫法，南方叫‘汤圆’，北方叫‘元宵’；按做法，南方包汤圆，北方滚元宵；按口味，有甜有咸。”武汉五芳斋汤圆制作技艺市级代表性传承人李杰告诉中新社记者。
广东有四式汤圆、贵州有鸡肉汤圆、上海有擂沙汤圆，而五芳斋的黑芝麻馅叠式汤圆则是“老武汉”的心头爱。
李杰说，叠式汤圆如此受欢迎，在于两大法宝：一是制馅，二是制面。取适量芝麻、些许猪板油，辅之以白糖、橘皮，揉搓成馅心。猪板油来自东北，当地猪膘厚一点，油脂好一点，更能提香。面皮选用上好的糯米粉，用水磨吊浆工艺使其口感更加爽滑。
叠式汤圆，“叠”为重头戏。据李杰介绍，按照传统做法，把馅心和糯米粉铺在簸箕上，端起簸箕“摇团”，类似农村的筛糠。再在汤圆上洒上冷水，继续“摇团”。如此反复多遍，汤圆越摇越大。如今，自动化机器代替了手工“摇团”——只需将馅心倒进装有糯米粉的机器大锅中翻滚，再蘸水打湿，层层叠加16次，一颗颗直径约3厘米的叠式汤圆就出锅了。
如此制作的五芳斋叠式汤圆皮薄而滑，白如羊脂，油光发亮，具有香、甜、鲜、滑、糯的特点。煮熟后的汤圆大小似乒乓球，轻轻咬开一个小口，热腾腾的芝麻馅缓缓淌出。看一眼，口齿生津；闻一闻，香气扑鼻；尝一口，芝麻醇厚，糯米绵密，口感瓷实，甜蜜馥郁。
据传，汤圆起源于宋朝，在沸水中翻滚的汤圆亦沉亦浮，犹如空中圆月，被世人赋予“阖家团圆”的美意，流传至今。
关于汤圆的吃法，古今“吃货”各有花样。清代诗人袁枚在《随园食单》中记载了“可盐可甜”的两样做法。咸口的萝卜汤圆：“萝卜刨丝滚熟，去臭气，微干，加葱、酱拌之，放粉团中作馅。”甜口的水粉汤圆：“用水粉和作汤圆，滑腻异常，中用松仁、核桃、猪油、糖作馅……”如今，汤圆还发展出榴莲馅、巧克力馅等新口味，以及油炸、拔丝等新吃法。
“吃了汤圆才团圆。”一个月前，武汉市民万静芳就早早地给身在美国的女儿寄去糯米粉和汤圆馅心，希望这份家乡味道能给远方的孩子传递思念和祝福。
天上月圆，碗里汤圆，人间团圆。元宵佳节，亲朋围坐，推杯换盏，最后来碗汤圆收尾，期盼新一年的温暖与甜蜜。(完)
中新网评：处理核污水绝不是日本自家私事****** 中新网北京1月19日电(蒋鲤)日本政府近日称，将于2023年春夏期间开始向海洋排放经过处理的福岛第一核电站核污水。日本罔顾国内民众及周边国家的屡屡反对，企图将核污水“一倒了之”，把一件关乎全球海洋生态环境和公众健康的事当成了自家私事。  资料图：日本福岛第一核电站。2011年，福岛核电站事故发生后，大量放射性物质泄漏到大气层和太平洋，对周围环境造成了难以逆转的伤害，数十万人被迫撤离该地区。时至今日，作为日本邻国之一的韩国仍未解除福岛海鲜禁令。 日本以核污水存储能力即将达到上限为由，在2021年4月13日，正式决定将福岛第一核电站核污水排入太平洋。过去一年多，日本政府和东京电力公司一直在持续推进核污水排海计划。 日本政府辩称，这些核污水经多核素处理系统(ALPS)处理后很安全，甚至“可以喝”，这样的表态无疑在愚弄大众。 事实上，经过处理的核污水仍含有多种放射性物质，核污水一旦排放入海就无法回收，长期来看，将会给海洋生态带来难以估量的潜在威胁，最终危害人类健康。 因此，核污水排海计划推出后，遭到日本民众强烈反对。日本《朝日新闻》2022年3月公布的问卷调查显示，福岛县、宫城县和岩手县受访的42个市町村长中，约六成反对东京电力公司福岛第一核电站核污水排放入海。日本全国渔业协会联合会也多次申明立场，反对该计划。 日本政府认为，核污水排海是最便宜、最省事的解决方案，但此举却将周边国家乃至全世界置于核污染风险中。太平洋非日本一家之海，核污水会随着洋流流动，其影响势必会跨越国界，危害周边国家乃至整个国际社会的公共福祉和利益。 《韩国经济新闻》发文称，相关研究认为，福岛核污水如果排放入海，约7个月后将到达济州等韩国海域，该国水产业和旅游业将遭受相当大的损失。 德国南极海洋机构也曾发出警告，若日本将所有核污水排入海中，不到半年，整个太平洋都将面临高度辐射威胁，包括远在大洋另一端的美国。太平洋地区人民更是对日本该计划持反对意见。 日本作为《联合国海洋法公约》缔约国，有义务保护海洋环境。然而，在核污水排海方案的正当性、核污水数据的可靠性、净化装置的有效性、环境影响的不确定性等问题上，日本未能作出科学、可信的说明。 国际原子能机构技术工作组虽已三次赴日实地考察评估，但尚未就日排海方案的安全性给出结论，并且对日本提出诸多澄清要求和整改意见。在此情况下，日本仍执意推进核污水排海工程建设，这是极不负责任的行为。 太平洋不是日本的下水道，日本必须正视各方合理关切，在与周边国家等相关利益方和国际原子能机构充分协商后，制定合理的核污水处理方案。日本也要着眼长远，若只顾眼前，执意将核污水排放入海，不仅其自身，周边国家乃至全世界都将为之买单，其后果必将会危害数代人。  Fukushima water disposal by no means Japan’s own business By John Lee (ECNS) -- Japan has announced it will release treated wastewater from the wrecked Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant into the Pacific Ocean this year. Although Fukushima wastewater disposal affects global marine ecological environment protection and public health, Japan has turned a deaf ear to domestic and international opposition to dumping the contaminated water into the sea, treating the "global" matter as its own business. The Fukushima accident in 2011 had sent large quantities of radiation into the atmosphere and the Pacific Ocean, causing irreversible damage to the surrounding environment, and hundreds of thousands of people were forced to evacuate the area. South Korea still maintains its import ban on Japanese seafood from areas affected by the Fukushima nuclear disaster. On April 13, 2021, Japan announced it had decided to discharge contaminated radioactive wastewater in Fukushima Prefecture into the sea due to dwindling storage space, with the Japanese government and plant operator Tokyo Electric Power Company Holdings Inc. promoting the release plan over the past year. The Japanese government argues that the water treated by an advanced liquid processing system, or ALPS, is safe and drinkable, which is undoubtedly fooling the public. In fact, the treated wastewater still includes a variety of radioactive substances and can’t be recycled once discharged into the sea, which will pose a great threat to marine ecology and ultimately endanger human health in the long run. Therefore, the discharge plan has been strongly opposed in Japan. According to a questionnaire conducted by The Asahi Shimbun, nearly 60 percent of mayors of 42 municipalities in Iwate, Miyagi and Fukushima prefectures oppose the discharge plan. The National Fisheries Cooperative Federation of Japan has also repeatedly stated its opposition in public. The Japanese government believes that dumping Fukushima wastewater into the sea is the cheapest and most convenient solution, but neighboring countries and even the whole world will be at risk of nuclear pollution. The Pacific Ocean doesn’t belong to Japan and the wastewater flow along oceanic currents will surely break boundaries and endanger public welfare and the interests of neighboring countries and even the international community. The Korea Economic Daily reported that related research concluded that if contaminated water from Fukushima is released into the ocean, it would only take seven months for the contaminated water to reach the shores of Jeju Island, with the country's aquaculture and tourism suffering considerable losses. According to the calculation of a German marine scientific research institute, radioactive materials will spread to most of the Pacific Ocean within half a year from the date of discharge, and the U.S. and Canada will be affected by nuclear pollution. People in the Pacific region also oppose the discharge plan. As a participant of the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea, Japan has the obligation of protecting the marine environment. However, it hasn’t offered a full and convincing explanation on issues like the legitimacy of the discharge plan, the reliability of data on the nuclear-contaminated water, the efficacy of the treatment system or the uncertainty of environmental impact. Though the IAEA has yet to complete a comprehensive review after three investigations in Japan, the Japanese side has been pushing through the approval process for its discharge plan and even started building facilities for the discharge. It is rather irresponsible for Japan to act against public opinion at home and concerns abroad. The Pacific Ocean is not a private Japanese sewer. The country must seriously heed the voices of the international community and make a reasonable plan for the Fukushima wastewater disposal after full consultation with stakeholders and international agencies. If it only seeks instant interest and insists on discharging the contaminated water into the sea, not only itself, but also its neighboring countries and the entire world will pay for the decision and several generations will be forced to bear the consequence. 
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